MAYNILA na WALA nang NILAD!

When The Best Mayor of Manila ever had, Gat Arcenio Lacson in 1958, proclaimed June 24 as Manila's "Foundation Day", he was criticized for exalting a colonial event; since Manila already existed way long before 1571, it could have not founded by Legaspi. But The Great Mayor acted on Faustian man's obsession with definite data; an invented "nationalist" date to mark the foundation old pre-1571 Manila would be pure myth-making, an activity repellent to the man of history.

Great cities came in existence because of their river, the rich delta of the river made it possible the practice of agriculture and settlement by which its residents use the river for their source of food, water, construction and transportation. Mesopotamia - “land between two rivers” now Baghdad, without her twin rivers Tigris & Euphrates' mud, construction of their Ziggurats and their cuneiform writing on clay tablets would not have been possible. Egypt without her Nile River, there will not be no great pyramids. Without the longest underground river in the world in the Yucatan peninsula, there will be no contribution to science, math, astronomy and a perfect calendar form the Mayans. There will be no China without her Yellow river, India without her Indus river, Anatolia (modern Turkey) without her Carsamba river. There will be no three major religions in the world from Judea without the Jordan river and there will be no Brazil, Columbia, Peru, Venezuela, Ecuador and Bolivia without the longest river in the world - the Amazon. Like these great cities and countries Manila was born because of Pasig River.

Pasig – an old Malayan word pertaining to the coast or strand, it connects Laguna de Bay to Manila Bay. Pasig gave birth to three kingdoms; The first and the oldest was the Kingdom of Namayan - also called Kingdom of Sapa later be called "Maysapan" and Christianised into Santa Ana de Sapa. It is known today simply as Santa Ana, a district of the City of Manila. The kingdom of Namayan was ruled by Lakan Tagkan that embraced ancient; Bonges - now Paco, Dibag - now Ermita, Panakawan - now Malate, Yamagtogan - Pasay and Maysapang - Quiapo/Sampaloc. Lakan Tagkan and his wife Buwan had five sons, one of whom a descendant named Martin, which was the first and the last Christian name traceable to the family registry. The chieftain also had a daughter by a slave of Bornean origin, named Pasay who inherited a place bearing the same name. Pasay was Christianized Dominga Custodio, whence Pasay City's main street was named Calle Dominga. Spanish military forced a treaty with Lakan Tagkan in 1578, the Franciscans established a parish at Sapa - the capital of Namayan. Dedicated to St. Anne. The parish acquired the name "Santa Ana de Sapa."

The second was the Kingdom of Tundo - also referred to as Tondo, Tundun, Tundok and Lusung. Tundo was a province of Pampanga or Ka Pampang (meaning of the same river), Kapampangan was the second dialect of Tundo back then. The kingdom had diplomatic ties with China during the Ming Dynasty. Before the arrival of the Spaniards in the late 16th century, the Kapampangan people made up the bulk of the population of what the Ming Dynasty texts referred to as the Luzon Empire or "Lusong Guo" in Chinese. Tundo was also in trade and alliance with Brunei's Sultan Bolkiah in 1500 merged it by a royal marriage of Gat Lontok, who later became Rajah of Namayan and Dayang Kaylangitan to establish a city with the Malay name of Selurong, later to become the kingdom of Maynilad or Manila. Tundo was ruled by Raja Lakandula a mixed Tagalog and Kapampangan descent. Tundo replaced Namayan as the main port of entry on Manila Bay because Tundo was right on the seaside, an advantage over Namayan. The merchant ships that came into the bay preferred to unload their goods to a closer Tundo. This made Tundo a distribution center or trading post on Pasig River, made Raja Lakandula's kingdom of Tundo a very progressive place. Raja Lakandula's present-day descendants are the Carmelos, the Puyats and the Macapagals.

At the height of the Luzon Empire's importance in the China trade in the 16th century, maritime trading and even piracy, became the main source of profit. As one of the "Lucues" (people of Luzon), many Tondenos and Kapampangans worked as mercenaries for the various states and kingdoms in Southeast Asia. The Luzon Empire became such an important center in Chinese trade that the Kingdom of Brunei was forced to invade it in 1500. The kingdom of Maynilad was created by the Bruneians to oversee the trade in Brunei's interest. Japanese records show that important traders like Luzon Sukezaemon and Shimai Soshitsu opened up shop in Luzon. At a time when the Ming Dynasty banned its citizens from leaving China, the Kapampangan traders from Luzon who brought Chinese goods all across Southeast Asia were thought of as Chinese. As late as the 17th century, the Sultanate of Sulu still commissioned Kapampangans to act as trade ambassadors to China.

Manila is the best strategic military location and was used as "Kuta" or Fort (now Fort Santiago) by Raja Matanda and his nephew, the first king of Manila, Rajah Sulayman. The long stretch of Pasig River was the first commercial street of Manila, the same route Chinese, Hindu, Japanese, Annamese, Malay and Arab merchants rowed up with their porcelains and silks for trading with the villagers’ produce. Riverine route dotted with settlements, came towns, hence the resident was called "Taga-Ilog" (meaning "from the river") also later became the dialect the Taga-Ilog speak, "Tagalog". With its towns and cities on the banks of Pasig river, there was a place where white flower bearing plants abundantly multiplied, braced, just refused to grow elsewhere, but only where Rajah Sulayman's kingdom, plant called "Nilad" (Scyphiphora hydrophyllacea). During that time when a Taga-ilog asked another Taga-ilog..."What part of Pasig are you from?" The Taga-ilog from Rajah Sulayman's fort reply..."Sa May-NILAD" ("I'm from where NILADs are"), hence the name of MAYNILA.

Rajah Sulayman, was aware of the importance of his strategically sited domain. Sulayman was the River Lord, dominating river traffic and exacting tolls from traders as they came and went. To show his power, he built a palisades of his “Kuta” dozens of cannons, made by the famous Panday Pira from Tondo. The great maritime empire of Sri Vijaya had based its power on control of the trade. Manila’s location along these vital sea lanes assured it a successful trade role, in which the famous Spanish Galleon Trade, Manila - Acapulco was based.

Governor-General Miguel López de Legazpi, searching for a suitable place to establish his capital after being compelled to move from Cebu to Panay by Portuguese pirates and hearing of the existence of a prosperous sultanate in Luzon, sent an expedition under Marshall Martin de Goiti and Captain Juan de Salcedo to discover its location and potentials. De Goiti anchored at Cavite and tried to establish his authority peaceably by sending a message of friendship to Maynilad and Tundo. Since Tundo is still a province of Pampanga, the chief of Macabebe, refusing to ally with the Spanish as Raja Lakandula of Tundo had done, decided to mount an attack at Bankusay Channel. His forces were defeated and he himself was killed. The Spanish victory at Bankusay and Legaspi's friendship with Rajah Lakandula, enabled the Spaniards to establish themselves throughout the city and its neighboring towns.

Peace in Rajah Sulayman’s kingdom of Maynilad was shattered upon the arrival of the Spaniards led by Martin de Goiti and latter by conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. The Kuta was burned twice, first by Goiti’s instruction and later by the Manilenos under the direction of Rajah Sulayman before it was completely left to the Spanish colonizers. Replacing Raja Sulayman's palisade of hard wood, logs and bamboos, the first Spanish construction was the fort that would bear the Apostle's name; and July 25 is the Feast of Fuerte Santiago. Acute angle at the mouth of Pasig river contained quarters for the artillery, large house for Legaspi and Augustinian friars. The shape of the city (pentagon) and its perimeter (about four kilometers) were determined by the tongue of land inherited from Sulayman's kingdom. High walls and moat were built for protection around the city, fear of invasion from hostile forces which can no longer trade with Manila, Muslims and Chinese pirates, like Limahong. Thus arose the Walled City, called "Intramuros" (within the walls) a medieval town with moats and five gates with drawbridges. The gates were closed at night and the drawbridges drawn up to prevent unwanted persons from entering the city. Only "Peninsulares" - Spaniards born in Spain were only ones allowed to reside in Intarmuros. "Insulares" - Spaniards born in the Philippines (also called Pilipino or Creoles), Peninsulares parents, foreigners, Mestizos (Spanish half breed), Indios (Tagalog) and Sangleys (Chinese), all lived "Extramuros" (outside the walls), were then simply called "Arrabales" or suburbs. People had to rush back to Intramuros or out of it because all gates would be closed at 11:00 at night to be opened only at 5:00 o'clock the following morning. The "curfew" was then in effect.

The Manila/Acapulco Gallon Trade, made Manila center of commerce in Asia & the Americas, though the city was only used as “warehouse for Asian goods” specially products from China to be shipped to Acapulco, Mexico while some to Spain. Attracted by the economic opportunities, the Chinese began to come in greater numbers. In the seventeenth century, more than 20,000 Chinese resided in Manila, outnumbering the Spanish settlers. Since the Spaniards started the gallon trade, made the colonial government profitable, but artisan, production and sourcing was dominated and monopolized by the Chinese. The native (Indios) could offer no competition for they had no capital and little experience in trading ventures. The Chinese therefore became an indispensable and established institution in Philippine economic life.

The Chinese barter activities for the purpose of securing goods that they could ship out, developed the production of Philippine produce like; abaca, sugar, resin and tobacco. The Philippine social transformation began; “Peninsular" (Spaniards born in Spain) still at the top of the social pyramid. Next were creoles or “Insulares” Spaniards born in the Philippines – the original “Filipinos” and together with them the “Mestizos.” Then came the “Mestizo Sangleys” or Chinese Mestizos, who occupied a higher position than the natives “Indios.” While “Sangleys” or Chinese at the bottom of the social scale. These distinct and separate classes did occur, unions between Chinese men and native women which produce Chinese mestizos. When the Chinese mestizo became rich landowners and merchants, they too intermarried with wealth-seeking Spaniards.

By 1750, the mestizos were already a recognized and distinct element in Philippine society and had become the elite of society. They took over commerce, haciendas, produce, trading and economy of the Philippines. In Central Luzon, members of old principalia were either absorbed by the new rising elite through intermarriage or depressed to the status of tenants. Old native names gradually disappeared and were partially displaced by Chinese mestizo surnames. Many mestizos dropped their Chinese names and assumed Spanish last names. Other mestizos Hispanized their surnames by combining the names of their fathers; viz. Lichuaco, Cojuanco, Yaptinchay, Tanbunting, Limhap, Tuason.

Thailand’s capital city, Bangkok is called the “Venice of Asia” because of its canals, so as China's Suzhou is often dubbed the "Venice of the East." In fact The City of Manila should be called “Venice of Asia” for the city has more canals or esteros than Bangkok and Suzhou. Perhaps the title Venice of Asia was not given to Manila because Intramuros, then was the Manila they knew, minus the districts that are now part of Metro Manila.

Ermita have Estero Balete. San Nicolas and Binondo have Estero de Binondo extends to Estero de la Reina, Ongpin, Gandara,Estero de la Industria, crosses Soler street ends at Reina Regente. Tondo have the wide Estero de Vitas, Ampioco, Patria, Estero Sunog Apog, Herbosa, Moriones, Estero Teneria, Abukay, Molave, Bambang, Estero de San Lazaro, and Estero de Magdalena. Quiapo have Estero de Quiapo and Estero de San Sebastian. Sampaloc have the San Juan River and Estero de Valencia. San Miquel, where The Malacanang Palace is located is surrounded by The Pasig River. Paco have Estero de Paco, Estero Concordia, Estero Balete and Estero Provisor. Santa Cruz have Estero de la Reina and Estero de San Lazaro. Pandacan have two esteros named Estero de Pandacan. Malate have Estero San Antonio Abad. Lastly, Santa Ana have Estero de Santa Clara and Estero Tripa de Gallina. These canals or esteros, I mentioned are located in the City of Manila, not counting the rivers, esteros and canals of the now Metro Manila. Basically Manila is surrounded by water, which flows to the main artery, Pasig River, that meets Manila Bay.

With the expanding towns around Intramuros "old Manila", like Binondo, Santa Cruz, Quiapo, and San Miguel, where business and commerce were booming and with the occupation of the Philippines by America, Manila expanded to these towns. Adding Tondo (old kingdom of Lakan Dula), San Nicolas, Sampaloc, Ermita, Malate, Paco, Pandacan and Santa Ana. Intramuros was literally a sitting duck when destroyed during the liberation of Manila. The Japanese didn't destroy the city, the Americans burned The famous "Distinguished And Ever Loyal City" called by King Philip II, to the ground!!! Manila was second to Warsaw among the cities devastated by the second World War. While during the Reign of Greed of the Dictator MARCOS, added more towns; Makati, Malabon, Pateros, Navotas, San Juan, Mandaluyong, Taquig, Las Pinas, Muntinglupa, Paranaque, Marikina, Pasig, Valenzuela. Expanded the city…hence called Metro Manila, appointed his shoe shopping wife imelda marcos control a bigger configuration as the "Governadora."

ka tony

the 24th of June, 2007

...about the photograph - "Intramuros - a city within a city"

I shot this photograph of "The Parian Gate" in Intramuros, in 1986 with my 35mm, Nikon F, in Black & White film, had it printed on mat photo paper, blown up by 50%. Retouched and colored some images with water color, after which I shot the "artwork" using a Sinar Camera with a 4"x 5" transparency format film. Had the 4"X 5" film processed, then interneg the finished 4"x 5" transparency. Lastly using the interneg, printed it on glossy photo paper. The result was this surreal picture, I titled..."City Within A City."